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Simian Winter Assault on Mt Harvard in the Sawatch Range,
Dec 1966-Jan 1967

includes never before seen photo archives saved and revealed by expedition member T. Courtright
35 years later -- see below!!


 EXPEDITION ROSTER

                                        Home                               Occupation

    Paul Boyer                          Wilmette, Ill.                                  Graduate student geology, Univ. Ill.
    Nick Carrera                        Alexandria, Va.                             Graduate student physics, Univ. Ill.
    Chuck Cooper                     Pleasantville N.Y.                        Grad, student, sociology, Univ. Ill.
    Terry Courtright                 Watseka, Ill.                                  Junior, Univ. Ill.
    Ron Cox                               Rockford, Ill.                                 School teacher, Rockford
    Jane Daggit                         Hamilton, Iowa                             Junior, Univ, of S. Dakota
    George Fredericks              Dayton, Ohio                                Grad. student, Physics Univ. Ill.
    Stan Fuka                            Manitowoc, Wisc.                        Sophomore, Univ. Ill.
    Laura Jasch                         Chicago, Ill.                                   Senior, Univ. Ill.
    Steve Jellen                         Edwardsville, Ill.                           Freshman, Univ. Ill.
    Frank Knight                       Chicago, Ill.                                   Assoc.Prof. mathematics Univ. Ill.
    Bill Knowler                        Iowa City, Iowa                             Junior, Univ. of Iowa
    Both Pedigo                        Detroit, Mich.                                Univ. of Mich. Hospitals
    Pat Stein                              Edwardsville, Ill.                            Freshman, Univ. Ill.
    Dick Stutzky                       Louville, Ky.                                  Grad. student, physics, Univ.
    Barbara Taylor                   Darien, Conn.                                 Senior, Wheelock College
    Curt Wagner, leader          Monroe, Wisc.                              Grad. student, physics, Univ. Ill.
    Peter Zvengrowski            New York, N.Y.                              Asst. Prof., mathematics, Univ. Ill.


                                                     Expedition Log

 
August, 1966 Curt Wagner and Pete Zvengrowski look over the Mt. Harvard area for winter climbing possibilities. They most Barney cambell owner of a ranch in Pine Creek Valley, and get his permission to use the blacksmith cabin there, at an elevation of 10,800'.

Thursday, December 22, 1966 Eleven Simians leave for Colorado in three cars loaded down with 250  lbs. food and heaps of climbing gear. Steve Jellen and Pat Stein first took a bus to Iowa City, where Bill Knowler had finagled a VW. Terry Courtright's station wagon had Curt, Laura Jasch, and Frank Knight as passengers. Pete's Rambler had Stan Fuka, Chuck Cooper, and Beth Perigo.

Friday, December 23 Eleven road weary Simians drag their tails into Buena Vista, Colorado, where Don Nordoe, owner of the Lakeside Motel, had reserved rooms for all.

Saturday, December 24 A 3 mile conditioning hike is taken on snowshoes (Chuck and Both used touring skiis) up Pine Creek trail. The tobbagon, loaded with supplies, is pulled a little past the big boulder called "the Sphinx” and left there to be picked up the next day. Everyone goes back to Buena Vista for the night.

Sunday (Christmas), December 25 The day of the pack?in to the cabin. Stan and Frank go ahead and reach the cabin at 5PM. The tobbagon is pulled a strenuous half mile up steepening trail by the Simian Chain Gang, who can show you scars from the whip FL cracked over then. People finally got together at the 4 3/4 mile towards evening. Six people spent the night there in two tents, while Curt, Laura, and Bill plodded ahead to the cabin.  They arrived 11:30 PM by moonlight, on handsand knees and singing "One more meadow, and that's more than I expected, one more meadow, and probably one more past that". At 12 PM Pete pulled out of his tent and hiked back in the moonlight to the cars, then drove to Denver.

Monday, December 26 The remaining five in the tents drag their tails up to the cabin. Stan and Frank go back to the tobbogan and bring back some supplies, like food and the Coleman stove.  Three new Simians arrive in Buena Vista: Barbara Taylor, who Pete picks up at the Denver airport, and Ron Cox and Jane Daggit, who arrive 4 AM Tuesday. Up at the cabin, Curt builds his new and amazing Adjustass. Trail is broken for about 500 ft. above the cabin.

Tuesday, December 27 Stan, Laura, Terry, Bill, Steve, and Chuck retreive the remaining supplies from the tobbagon. Frank ad Curt go up to set up high camp, at a frozen lake by the last available timber (11,900'). Pete, Barbara. Ron, and Jane pack up to the cabin, "riving by moonlight at 7:30 PM. Things are pretty snug in the cabin by now.  Everyone enjoyed the Veg-a-rice dinner so much that most of it stayed In the pot. The rest quickly found its way to the Adjustass.

Wednesday, December 28 Huzzah, arriba, voila, carastactilarinanthropico, quadrithopic, etc. Curt and Frank slowly ascend the avow couloir and, with fair weather,  scramble up the last 400 feet of rocks to the top.  They arrive at 1 PH. On the way down they meet Bill, Stan, Laura, and Terry, who missed the high camp and have set up their tent about 1,000 above it. They are talks& into going back down to the original high camp, not without difficulty. All six spend the night at high camp. It is cold (-19 ) and Stan's toes develop some frostbite.

Thursday, December 29 Curt and Frank return to the cabin with Stan. They meet Pete, Barbara, Steve, Chuck, and Ron who are on their way up to high camp. Bill, Laura, and Terry go up in the  morning from high camp and reach the summit at 3:15, this time using a rocky spur to the East of the snow couloir. They return to high camp at night, and spend the evening there &.long with the five now arrivals. By now three tents are up at the camp. Down below four more Simians pack up to the cabin: Paul Boyer, Nick Carrera, George Fredericks, and Nick Carrera. They arrive in various states of disrepair, cursing ‘one more beaver meadow'.

Friday, December 30 Mt. Harvard is dealt its final blow an the five Simians desecrate its summit, arriving 2 PM. They are the first group to get photo on top, although the day is unfortunately cloudy. Chuck even takes motion pictures on top. They got in some good glissades and human tobaggon runs on the way down to high camp, where they meet Stan, Dick, Jane, and Pat who have come up that day.  Steve, Pat, Ron, and Jane continue on down to the cabin, while Pete and Barbara remain with Stan and Dick at the camp.

Saturday, December 31 Ron, Jane, and Frank pack out and return to civilization. A summit attempt by Stan and Dick gets to about 12,500' before they return down to the cabin.  Bill, Paul, and George go up to high camp and return. That evening 15; Simians are all down at the cabin for the New Year's Eve party. Ten lbs. of steak were fried on the Coleman, fireworks rang up and down the valley, and the liquor supply was demolished.  Wine, rum, vodka, egg nog, and snowicles were featured.

Sunday, January 1, 1967  Eleven Simians return to Civilization. Just Curt, Paul, Nick, and George remain.

Jan.2-5  One last attempt on Harvard is made, which is balked at 13,500' by high winds.  The rest of the time to spent in the cabin playing cards.  On Jan. 5 the last four pack out.




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